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TO THE BRITISH SALTWATER FLY-FISHERMAN, mobility is of prime importance. The need to move with the tide, and consequently the Bass, is essential if fish are to be caught on anything approaching a regular basis. This need makes ease of movement and economy of weight a priority, and it is in just this situation that a shooting-head system excels. Among its numerous advantages, a shooting-head system is lighter and more compact for the mobile angler. A reel holding the running line and backing, coupled to a selection of heads; compared to a selection of full lines, each requiring backing and individual spare spools.

Cost is another factor in favour of the shooting-head set-up. The fly-fisherman in pursuit of Bass needs a minimum of three lines: an intermediate, a type III sinker and a type VI sinker. The cost soon starts to escalate if each line has a dedicated spool complete with 200yds of thirty-pound braided backing. A quick check in a proprietary mail order catalogue reveals a price of around £330 for a mid-price large arbor reel and two extra spools, three decent lines and 600yds of backing. Compare this to the figure of £130 for a shooting-head system consisting of the same reel, 200yds of backing, 50yds braided nylon running line and three heads made from DT mill-end lines. A considerable saving in anybody's language. And by using a reel from the cheaper end of the market, further worthwhile savings can be made. Alternatively, a quality reel from Orvis or Loop could easily double either figure

The shooting-head's potential for distance casting is well publicised - hence their use on the tournament field. The reason behind this extra distance is no great secret; just basic Physics at work, a fine running line, dragged by the heavier head, has far less friction to overcome than a normal fly-line. This allows it to travel longer distances for the same amount of effort. Personally I'm happy with a 35yd cast, but an expert using a specialist distance casting outfit can double this. Don't however think you'll be able to use one of these monsters for day-to-day fishing. Being clobbered by a Clouser Deep Minnow, complete with its heavy dumb-bell eyes is bad enough. In the wrong hands, eleven yards of lead-cored trolling line propelled by a telegraph pole has the potential to seriously maim.

The tide moves in a constant and predictable cycle of change: rising and falling in accordance to the gravitational effects of the Moon and Sun. This means that the depth of water in which the fish are feeding can change dramatically in a very short time. Anybody who has witnessed the awe-inspiring speed with which a large spring tide can flood a shallow bay or estuary will confirm this. This constant change of depth calls for frequent changes of line if you are to consistently catch fish. Bass feeding in two feet of water may require an intermediate line. An hour later these same fish may be feeding in ten feet of water and demand the use of a DI-8 if a fly is to be correctly presented. The ease and speed of replacing a shooting head makes it far more likely that you'll bother to make the change than if a full re-tackle with a different line were needed. Consequently, you are more likely to be fishing at the correct depth, which is always conducive to catching more fish.

Having looked at some of the benefits let's now take a look at the make-up of the system. The backing on your reel should be a minimum of 200yds of thirty-pound braided Dacron. Although this may seem excessive, there is a very good reason for it. The backing needs to be stronger than the highest breaking strain leader you are going to use. When the leader is the weakest link only the fly is lost; however, If the backing has the lowest breaking strain you stand the chance of losing everything in front of it. Although a 20lb leader is unlikely to be necessary in the UK, should you take your tackle on holiday abroad you may find that a leader of this strength is called for. No guide is going to be impressed if he spends all day finding you a 100lb Tarpon, only to have it break the inadequate backing on its first big run. Wouldn't it be embarrassing if you've scaled up the business end of the tackle only to forget about the lowly twenty-pound backing?

Your choice of running line really depends on the level of experience you have using shooting heads. Since this article is aimed mainly at beginners, I'd suggest you stick with thirty-pound braided mono, at least until you get comfortable using shooting-heads in the wind and surf. This type of running line has the best overall mix of characteristics for the tyro. It doesn't tangle excessively and is enough easy to undo when it does. Its high level of friction turns the head over reasonably well albeit at the expense of ultimate distance: something most novices won't need to worry about initially anyway. This friction also makes it easy to handle with cold, wet hands. These good handling traits are also aided by its larger diameter in comparison to some of the alternatives.

In the interests of completeness I'll briefly outline the alternatives. Several manufacturers produce a coated running line, basically a thin, level fly-line. This usually has a core of monofilament although some have a braided Dacron base. Both types possess good handling properties and similar friction levels, but the mono-cored type kinks far more easily. Both are fairly stiff, which can inhibit distance. The other alternative worth considering is the various specialised monofilaments such as Amnesia or one of the flat beam types. While these running lines are superb for distance casting, on a wind-swept beach their ability to tangle and form tight knots is second to none. Their handling characteristics leave much to be desired, as does their ability to turn over the head. One point in their favour is cost: generally they are inexpensive. If you have any doubts about your capabilities, stick with the braided mono. A quick tip: regardless of the running line chosen, make the loop at the end of the line a good size - five or six inches long is adequate. This allows the heads to be swapped while they are still coiled up. Believe me, this is far quicker and easier than pulling it through yard by yard, especially when you're stood waist deep in the swell on a windy day - or night.
At the heart of any shooting-head system are the heads themselves. As already mentioned, since the head is beyond the tip-ring of the rod during the casting process, it need not be made from an expensive name brand. As long the donor line doesn't have chronic memory it seems a bit pointless to use anything other than a budget or mill end line.

The whole point of the shooting-head is that the angler should be able to load the rod in one series of movements. Roll the head to the surface, pick-up, back cast, haul and then shoot. The complete head and a short length of the running line, called the overhang, ought to be beyond the tip ring when the cast is shot. The function of the overhang is to enable a double haul to be made without the joint between the two lines passing through the tip ring. The length of overhang will vary, but will probably be between two and six feet. Trying to cast with too much overhang causes problems. The head may hinge badly at the joint or the cast may start to collapse because the running line is unable to support the weight of the head.

Although shooting-heads can be bought readymade, either from line manufacturers or from some tackle retailers, it is better if you can make your own. If you rely on shop-bought heads, where do you turn when you require that extra short, heavy head for a specific place at that particular tide height? Chopping-up a fly line feels a bit strange the first time but if you approach it methodically, constructing your own shooting-heads needn't cause too much anxiety. All that is required is a modicum of patience and a few simple tools: a pair of scissors, some braided loops and some superglue. I usually make my shooting-heads by trial and error. I only make this seemingly obvious statement because I have seen weight advocated as a means of determining head length. From a personal viewpoint I don't place too much faith in this system. Curiosity caused me to weigh my floating, slow sink and fast sinking heads: they were all different weights. Although all three heads load the rod perfectly for my casting style, the floating head was lightest and fast sinker was heaviest. The weights increased as the cross-section of the line decreased, leading me to conclude that friction and aerodynamics have a considerable influence.

To avoid excessive head lengths, and the dipping casts associated with them, requires the use a donor line which is one or two sizes heavier than the rating of your rod. The rod I use is - somewhat conservatively in my opinion - rated at #8/9 and a DT-11 is my usual starting point. Typically, I end up with a head length of around thirty feet - which I feel adds some weight to my suspicions. For most of us nine or ten yards of line is a comfortable amount to cast. Experts may be able to handle more: a beginner will perhaps require less.

To start making the actual head, thread the donor line through the rings and attach a leader and fly. If you use the sort of equipment that you expect to be casting in a fishing situation, you'll avoid trouble later. If the line isn't going to turn over a 2/0 Clouser, it's better to find out now, at home in the garden, than on the beach later. Assuming all is well continue to cast and lengthen the line until about nine yards of line lie on the grass in front of you. The rod should pick-up this length of line with no problems, and at the same time, feel like it is close to loading properly. Continue lengthening the amount beyond the rod tip, a foot at a time, until the rod is casting nicely and is loading well. With a waterproof pen, mark the line where you're holding it: this is your benchmark. Feed another six feet of line and try to pick-up and cast this length in one movement; the rod should feel like laboured and overloaded. If not, the head is starting to get a bit long. The donor line is probably too light and may need increasing by a weight or perhaps two. If you know anybody who regularly uses shooting heads, this would be the time to ask for some help.

Hopefully none of the above problems have befallen you and it's time to strip all the line back in and repeat the whole process again. This is just a safety check before you make any irreversible cuts. You should find that, to within a foot or so, your results are the same and that you are holding the mark on the line. You are? Good, now cut the line at the mark, coil the head, take it inside and put the kettle on.

You've now reached to point where a temporary loop is attached to the cut end of the fly-line for the first time. With the loop attached to the head, put the reel onto the rod, and thread the running line through the rings. Attach the head via the loop-to-loop method and start to cast. When the rod is working properly, take note of where the join is. If it is still where your hand falls - as it should be - withdraw the head and cut off two feet from the end with the loop on. Reattach the loop and try again. If plenty of the shooting-head is still inside the rod when optimum loading is reached, withdraw it and cut off another foot. Keep doing this until the rod is loaded correctly with all of the head plus approximately three feet of running line outside the tip ring. Although it may appear a tedious way of doing the job, this method of trial and error ensures you don't end up cutting the head too short.

Attaching a permanent loop is the final step. It is perfectly adequate to use silicone sleeve to attach the loop for fine-tuning purposes; however, when it is time to attach the permanent loop, instead of using the sleeve, use a nail knot. The head will soon come free if silicon sleeve is used to hold it in place because the casting action will be working the tube loose all the time. Tubing used at the joint between a shooting-head and running line will rapidly wear, leaving only the glue to hold everything together.

The set-up should feel like it's crying out to be double-hauled and then shot; if it does, try it and watch the running line disappear through the rings. Assuming you are happy with everything, go and practice with your new toy.